There are two kits to build from SM Models, this meat van and the Corpse Van. Since the construction of each is very similar with only detail differences, this description will serve to cover both vehicles.
So what's in the box, which not hold the finished model, but is very robust and a useful box for soring materials in.
Four
sheets of etch, a ready rolled roof, some white metal castings and a couple
of lengths of 0.7mm wire. The instructions, on both sides of a folded
A4 sheet are adequate for a builder with some experience of etched kits but
might prove a challenge for a beginner. Also included are extracts from the
relevant HMRS publication, which includes a dimensioned line drawing. There
was also a set of instructions headed "51L Chowbent 4mm" and tailed "Wizard
Models" (but not for the Corpse Van), which suggest that the underframe is a
separate unit - it's not -; while the etches are marked "Oldbury Models".
This suggests a
somewhat chequered history. There is also a coloured picture of a
finished model taken from SM's website. A number of other parts were provided by
my client to complete the box.Back to Top
Slater's
wheels and vacuum pipes, Prestige buffers and Exactosale couplings, to which
I have also added a set of WEP compensation units. As usual, I read
through the instructions and then altered some things as I went. As
much work as possible was done "in the flat". Things like the lower
lamp irons, that would be awkward to do once assembled and the door hinges.
The buffers beams can be replaced with cast white metal units but I stuck
with the etched brass. The ends fold over and one can either fill them
with solder or, as I did,
solder
in some scrap brass and file it down to give a nice strong and square shape.
The wheels were cleaned up, chemically blackened and fitted to the
compensating units ready for fitting after the body was assembled. It
is necessary to cut off the axles ends almost completely to fit between the
axle guards. The compensation units are simple to construct but
usually require a 5BA washer or two to take up the lateral slack on the
axles or the vehicle will 'hunt' from side-to-side. The sides
have their tumbleholms shaped before the top and bottom are folded over at
90º. A job that takes some care as the half etched panelling is thin
and easily dented. I started it off on a piece of tube and then used
fingers to tweak it until the curve fitted well with the end.Back to Top
Assembling
the body is a little fiddly using edge soldering and so I made things easier
by soldering some short lengths of brass angle on the sides a thickness of
brass from the edge. I found this necessary because the natural place
for the ends, against the protruding top and bottom folds, is to deep.
It just takes a little care but, once tack soldered up square, each joint
was seamed, checking all the while for square. On reflection, a better
way would have been to solder some brass strip to the ends, thick enough for
the end to sit on the folder over at top and bottom. Then the rains strips
were soldered in place before the roof was fitted, there are no lamps to fit
to this vehicle. Fitting the roof at this stage helps to make a strong
box.Here is the largely completed body, a strong, square box on which to work to fit all the underframe parts.
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The kit is designed to have the wheels running in the white metal axle boxes, which then need drilling out for the bearings. I simply soldered the axles guards in place and then followed this with four strips of scrap. Two between each pair to preserve the centre line for lining up the wheels sets later. The vacuum cylinder was soldered to another strip of brass and then the strip was soldered into position using the cross shaft as a datum to get the position right. The instructions make reference to 0.9mm wire for the cross shaft but there was none provided with either kit. The springs come as separate units and will be glued on later with Loctite 408.
The
step boards as simply folded up and soldered together as a pair with wire
for the supports using the measurements provided in the instructions.
Once the wires are cut in half, the support struts simply push into etched
holes in the sole bar. It is worth checking these before starting
assembly as some of mine were not etched through and needed
attention with a
0.7mm drill, easier to do in the flat.
Back to TopHere all the under gear is fitted and the compensation works fine. There was no need of any packing as the units fitted exactly. No couplings have yet been fitted but will be once the type the client wants has been clarified.
The van is virtually finished so now simply awaits those couplings and good clean up before a trip to Dennis's paint shop.
A well designed kit of an interesting prototype that goes together well with no real problems.
This review was passed to the manufacturer, who thought it a fair assessment.
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